Thursday, July 31, 2008

General thoughts on Uspantán

I'm getting ready to clear on out of lovely Uspantán tomorrow for
probably the last time. This has been a really enjoyable stay, and
productive (I think), although some of statistically significant
findings that came out of ideas gathered here are really sensitive to
model specification, and other ideas I can't test. Still, I have high
hopes for these ideas about jurisdictional optimality and social bonds
and collective action problems.

Although I really get a kick out of conducting these interviews and
being able to talk to the locals, the best part of this segment has been
the fantastic set of Estadounidenses that I've bumped into here--the
three local Peace Corps volunteers (without whom, this segment of my
trip wouldn't have been nearly as successful), and the folks from
Louisville down here putting in water purification systems (without whom
I wouldn't have eaten nearly as well--though I would have eaten several
more combination hamburger/fried chicken sandwiches).

Basically, my story about Uspantán is this:

First, this is a geographically huge municipality--they tell me that it
takes about ten hours to travel from end to end, which seems about
right, based on my limited experience. In a jurisdiction of this size,
even a municipality, the statistics we use to measure local outcomes
mask a tremendous amount of variation that I wish I could get my hands
around. Statistics at the village level, in a place like this, would be
fantastic.

Even so, I've found out one thing:

The thing I've found out--Uspantán isn't the low outlier that it first
seemed to be. Upon some observation, I suspected that some of the
numbers in our survey were inaccurate, so I went in to talk to the
treasurer, and after three attempts, finally caught up with him. I
double-checked some of the strange values in our dataset (municipal
employees and percent of the local budget in forestry) and found that
the old values were too low. I entered the new values and re-plotted
the regressions, and although Uspantán still sits a little below the
regression line in most of the models I've been using, it's a lot closer
than it was before. This means that Krister's institutional approach
explains Uspantán better than it seemed at first.

And I've come up with some good ideas which I might be able to test:
1. Social bonds severed by the civil war may help communities surmount
collective action problems to manage forests in a more sustainable way,
and to avoid tragedy-of-the-commons situations.
2. Too-large jurisdictional boundaries can also create a
tragecy-of-the-commons, where municipalities face pressures from
individuals who favor too-restrictive and unrestrictive forestry policy,
and where individuals feel compelled to harvest trees to quickly, lest
their neighbors do it for them. Smaller jurisdictional sizes with de
facto powers of enforcement solve this problem, by creating clear
community "property rights" which encourage sustainable practices (since
the community can ensure that the trees won't be cut down by others,
they have more reasons to harvest them gradually, in a sustainable way)
3. Social bonds also seem to matter in helping communities avoid
internal tragedies-of-the-commons.
4. And although the part of me that's been socialized as a rational
choicer wants to pooh-pooh this, constructivist-like ideas about people
developing an environmental consciousness have come up again and again
interviews, and seem to be supported by the statistical significance of
variables that measure education in several models. I just wish I had a
more convincing way to get at this, and to avoid the reverse-causality
associated with these kinds of models (of course people who have, for
example, an economic interest in sustainable forestry will be keen to
talk about conservation and their development of an environmental
consciousness).

Laj Chimel

Laj Chimel means "Little Chimel," because it's a village built on the
site of the former village of Chimel. It's little because 14 families
live there, but 70 families lived in old Chimel.

Chimel is the home of Rigoberta Menchú, who won the Nobel Peace Prize
back in the early '90s for helping to publicize the plight of rural,
indigenous Guatemalans in the Guatemalan civil war. Although her book,
_I, Rigoberta Menchú_ has been criticized (not least for factual
inaccuracies), it's a pretty accurate story if taken as a typical
account of Guatemalans during the armed conflict here.

One of the local peace corps volunteers and one of the municipal
employees here had some work to do up there--they're promoting an
ecotourism project up in the village--and she agreed to take me and
several other gringos--a bunch of folks from Louisville, KY working on
water purification projects down here--up to the village to check it
out, and so I could talk to the people up there about their efforts to
conserve local forests.

The trip was incredible.

Not only did we get to take a hike through the beautiful and incredibly
rich cloud forest up there, but the locals had put together this
incredible rope swing which we were able to try out, we got a look at a
local lagoon which fills up with water in the dry season and dries out
when it rains (good for swimming--I'll put the pictures up when I can
get a wireless connection) we saw some beautiful scenery, I was able to
conduct an interview, and we good to hear the incredible and painful
story of one of the local women's experience during the civil war,
including accounts of being raped, her baby daughter dying, watching
friends tortured and killed, and watching her village be burned to the
ground.

A little background:

Supported by the US, the Guatemalan military regime fought against
Marxist guerrillas (themselves largely a product of earlier, arrogant
and misguided US interventions in Guate.) using techniques borrowed from
US efforts against the Vietnamese. Literally, the Guatemalan Army did
its best to clear the countryside of peasants, so there was nobody who
could support the guerrillas. Mostly, the peasants just wanted to be
left alone, but they got caught in the middle, with terrible results.

But now, they're back, trying to rebuild (and making a good go of it, by
the looks of it.) After buying back their land from large landowners
who had taken it over during the war, two of the original families have
returned, with twelve other families. Beautiful place, though I can't
imagine returning home to a place where you've experienced so much pain
and heartbreak...

Monday, July 28, 2008

Negative binomial model

Went back and did a little reading on the poisson model--sad to say, my
model (below) doesn't pass the post-estimation tests. So I tried a
negative binomial model (thanks to Ying Lu for teaching us all this
stuff), but I get two different sets of results, depending on how I set
the dispersion. Think I'll need to wait to get back home to reread my
notes on this stuff.

Poisson Regression

Look at these beautiful z-values!

I've been fighting with a badly skewed dependent variable--the
percentage of the municipal budget in forestry. It occurred to me that
the distribution resembles a poisson distribution. But I'm not sure
that this is right. Poisson regression is for count variables--number
of people who fall out of the back of Guatemalan pickup trucks, for
example. But this is a proportion... I don't think I have straight
budgetary size, which would be better...

This doesn't work as well with a personnel variable--the number of
people working in forestry.

Iteration 0: log pseudolikelihood = -164.60041
Iteration 1: log pseudolikelihood = -158.84706
Iteration 2: log pseudolikelihood = -158.82052
Iteration 3: log pseudolikelihood = -158.82052

Poisson regression Number of obs
= 50
Wald chi2(12) =
175.07
Prob > chi2 =
0.0000
Log pseudolikelihood = -158.82052 Pseudo R2 =
0.4930

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Robust
for_budge~08 | Coef. Std. Err. z P>|z| [95% Conf.
Interval]
-------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
NGO_demands | .5640684 .189278 2.98 0.003 .1930903
.9350465
NGO_ec_suppo | -.3174905 .1405181 -2.26 0.024 -.5929009
-.0420801
rel_cit_dema | .6391908 .2348854 2.72 0.007 .1788238
1.099558
import_to_ci | -.3157467 .2260987 -1.40 0.163 -.7588921
.1273987
import_cent_ | .1148308 .1097506 1.05 0.295 -.1002765
.3299381
user_et~g_08 | .5093573 .3601709 1.41 0.157 -.1965647
1.215279
elite_educ | .0838478 .0705506 1.19 0.235 -.0544288
.2221245
pop_dens_01 | .0018278 .000772 2.37 0.018 .0003147
.003341
size | .000385 .0001025 3.76 0.000 .0001841
.000586
empl_per_~08 | 2.447348 3.064496 0.80 0.425 -3.558954
8.453651
pct_for_c~08 | .0180918 .0111026 1.63 0.103 -.0036688
.0398525
import_~v_08 | .4119408 .1828592 2.25 0.024 .0535434
.7703382
_cons | -1.051291 1.179759 -0.89 0.373 -3.363577
1.260995
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Why...

...are Guatemalan pillows either lumpy as all get-out, or hard as a soft
rock?

Jurisdictional Flexibility

Elsewhere, I've spent some time discussing my theory of "jurisdictional
optimality," in which larger municipalities are more likely to be
further from the optimal jurisdictional size. Optimality, in this case,
is defined (following from Ferejohn and Weingast 1997) as jurisdictional
boundaries being appropriately shaped and sized so that the benefits of
a given policy are shared by the same group of people who share the
costs of that policy. In more concrete terms, in this case, this means
that jurisdictional boundaries are drawn so that the costs of enforcing
sustainable forestry regulations are borne by the same group of people
who will experience the benefits.

If the hypotheses regarding jurisdictional optimality tested here are
accurate (as statistical evidence seems to indicate), there are a few
implications that bear directly on the structure of decentralization
reforms in general, and Guatemala's process of decentralization in
particular.

First, because different policy tasks will affect differently-sized and
differently-shaped geographic groupings of people, it is important for
decentralization reforms to incorporate mechanisms by which
jurisdictions can be flexibly bounded—either smaller or larger,
depending on whether costs and benefits are distributed optimally among
larger or smaller or differently shaped jurisdictions.

Second, it is important that these jurisdictional sizes and shapes are
allowed to change with relative ease—because it is unlikely that
jurisdictional sizes and shapes will be correctly anticipated by
reformers when decentralization reforms are initially implemented, and
it is equally unlikely that jurisdictional needs will remain the same
over long periods of time, as population distributions, ecological
dynamics, and technology (among other factors) change.

In the case of Guatemalan decentralization reforms in the forestry
sector, some of the elements needed for optimum jurisdictional
flexibility are present, while other elements are missing.

It is relatively easy, for example, for Guatemalan municipalities to
form mancomunidades, or co-management regimes, in which several
different municipalities can join together in a special-purpose
jurisdiction. Some examples are the jurisdiction created by the rural
municipalities in the environs of Quetzaltenango for development and the
attraction of NGO, IGO, and aid organization funding, and the
co-management regime under construction between Cantel and its neighbors
for the environmental protection of the Samala river. Where
municipalities are too small, it is easy to create larger jurisdictions
to approximate jurisdictional optimality.

What is largely absent from the Guatemalan decentralization scheme,
however, is a legal way to constitute smaller-sized jurisdictions, and
combinations of smaller sized jurisdictions, perhaps at the level of the
village. As a result, where jurisdictions are small (in small
municipalities like Santa Catarina Barahona and Zunil) it is easier to
build larger units for optimal governance. Where jurisdictions are
large, however, it is difficult to create effective, lower-level,
smaller units of governance for policy tasks which are best managed in
units of smaller geographic size. Forestry and watershed management, for
example, might be policy tasks best managed at the level of relatively
smaller jurisdictional units such as villages (Aldeas) inside of
municipalities.

While Aldeas do have legally recognized community organizations (COMUDES
or municipal councils for development), these organizations primarily
serve purposes of interest aggregation and articulation, passing
requests on to the Mayor and municipal council, not playing any role in
self-governance.

Guatemalan Patent Medicine

When I was in the Totonicapan market this morning, I heard a couple of
gentleman shouting the benefits of their "natural remedies." I got a
kick out of the fact that one such product was being advertised as good
for "headaches, colic, anger, and fear..." among other things. It
doesn't take too many visits to New England county fairs (or the
Rockland, Maine Lobsterfest) to know that this sort of thing is alive
and well in the states, as well.

I've been gettin' some hard travelin'

...I thought you know'd...

Way down yonder in Totonicapan, way down the road
In the back of a picop, dusty 'n rough
Couple of Guatemalans helped me find my bus

I've been gettin' some hard travelin' Lord

That may be a little too obscure of a reference, but it's been bouncing
around in my head for a couple miles. Or kilometers, as they use them
down here more often.

Spent the night in Totonicapan last night--wanted to at least poke my
head into the municipality which has such unusual forestry-related
outcomes (very high) and hang around for the enormous Saturday market,
which seems to take up about half the city (though the streets look so
different with market stalls in them, I have no way of knowing exactly
how far the market extends--I found myself repeatedly turned around when
distracted by beautiful looking carrots or really cheap kitchen knives.

Incidentally, a very high quality (though rather utilitarian) carving
knife down here goes for about $3.50. That's more than Bolivia, where
they were about a dollar, but still a hell of a deal. I imagine they're
cheaper in Brazil, as well, as they're all made by Tramontina, the very
high-quality Brazilian cutlery firm.

I was hoping that once I got to Totonicapan, I would discover direct
buses from there to Quiché, where I would then be able to move on easily
to Uspantán, but I had no such luck. When I inquired about pickup
trucks, the answer was in the affirmative (although a hesitant
affirmative, as I am only a stupid Gringo).

But I decided that I would try to catch a pickup truck for about an
hour, and if I didn't have any luck, I would walk down to the bus
terminal and go that way.

But I thought the direct route from "Toto" to Quiché is much shorter,
and I thought it would be a lot less complicated, though I'm not sure I
was right about either of those things. It is shorter in distance, but
I'm not sure how much time I saved. Nevertheless, it was a hell of a
beautiful (if dusty) ride. Definitely worth the extra effort (and
embarrassment).

So I spent about two hours wandering through the market this morning,
and I got some good pictures and video, I think. Then I headed back to
pack up, and I was out of the hotel room at about 11:30.

I found the correct corner for the Quiché pickup trucks, and while
there, I was approached by a friendly and helpful Guatemalan guy with
his daughter, who were headed my way, and pointed me in the right
direction. We found a truck, hopped on board (hopefully without bumping
too many heads along the way) and we were off.

The first portion of the trip was incredible. First, through the
beautifully maintained forests of Totonicapan municipality (one of the
only places in the country without a deforestation problem) and then,
out into beautiful pastoral landscapes (where the forest has been cut
for agricultural purposes). It's hard, though, looking at those farms,
to not think about the way we (the US) more or less unthinkingly plowed
the great plans under and completely changed the ecosystem of much of
the landscape between the Appalachians and the Rockies.

Stunning country. As I told someone, like a sublime combination of
Virginia, Pennsylvania, and the Rockies.

In any event, we made it into San Antonio, where we changed pickups for
the remaining 20 minute ride into Quiché. Along the way, the Guatemalan
guy got off, but not before assuring me that the truck would take me to
the central plaza in Quiché and recommending a spot for lunch (Pollo
Campero, of course!) From there, on to a chicken bus, and on to
Uspantán. On the chicken bus, I ran into another Estadounidnense with
whom I had a nice conversation about her peace corps experience in
Lesotho. I learned a lot. For starters, it's pronounced Le-soo-thoo.

And now I'm back in Uspantán, just two rooms down from where I was a
week and a half ago. Not quite home, but it feels good to be sitting
still again.

Friday, July 25, 2008

Totonicapan

Here in "Toto" (as the guys on the bus say it) they do a couple of
things wrong:
1. Not a single diet coke or diet pepsi in town.
2. Terrible, off-key singing from the evangelical church down the road.
3. No direct buses from here to Sta. Cruz del Quiché

However, they really have a couple things right:
1. Breakfast for lunch.
2. Best "American" breakfast I've had to date--all the right elements.
Includes two pancakes, real maple syrup, ham and eggs, coffee, and corn
tortillas.
3. I think I'm the only gringo in town
4. Direct pickup truck rides to Sta. Cruz del Quiché
5. Guy greeted me on the street by saying, ¡Que bigotes!

Thursday, July 24, 2008

¡Tiky Piña!

I am thrilled to announce that I have discovered the Guatemalan version
of my Peruvian beverage of choice, Inka Kola--a yellow,
bubblegum-flavored, excessively-sweetened soft drink which I pine for
while not in Peru (and which I gorge on when I am there).

There is a soda here which is identical in every way, but the packaging
is different--supposedly, it's pineapple flavored, but they're not
fooling me--I know that it's really Inka Kola flavored.

A New Haircut

Got my first Guatemalan haircut today--it set me back $2, and only
because I'm a big tipper (not so hard to do down here).

The experience included a moustache brushing, and an evening out of my
moustache where the barber didn't approve.

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Stuck between Apple and Google

I'm currently in the process of uploading a full set of pictures (pretty
full, anyways) to my web site at CU:

http://sobek.colorado.edu/~wrightgd

Once you're there, click on "My Life Outside," then "Guatemala '08"

You can also link to it from clicking on my profile in the sidebar, then
clicking on "My Web Page," or "Mi Página Web" if you're in a
Spanish-speaking place.

Not sure what it will say if you're Maureen, though.

This is taking so long that I'm thinking of switching to Picasa from
iWeb for showing off pictures, like Boz has done. But then I would be
taking another step into the Google zone.

Think today will be my trip out to Cantel, a factory town outside of
Xela (Quetzaltenango), to try for another interview or two.

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Consumer Culture

Back in Boulder, Zane (in "The Audacity of Hops"--there's a link in the
sidebar) argues that consumer debt in the United States is a result of a
consumer culture, not of any rational-choice process of weighing costs
and benefits.

I'm not sure I disagree with that, but aren't these two types of
approaches--viewing outcomes as primarily the result of some cognitive,
ideational, or socially-constructed process, and viewing outcomes
primarily as the result of a rational weighing of costs and
benefits--two sides of the same coin, and closely interrelated?

There are some desires that are innate to human behavior. For example,
if we're hungry, we can pretty much bet on the fact that we're going to
make rational choices to see that we get something to eat. By
extension, we can probably bet that we'll make a fairly rational
weighing of costs and benefits to decide whether to steal some bread to
feed our hungry kids.

I was in the market here the other day--in Quetzaltenango,
Guatemala--and I saw a skinny, mangey dog running out of the front
market door with a big old chunk of what appeared to be beef. It wasn't
a scrap--he had taken it from a butcher, somewhere inside, and he was
trying to get away with it without it being stolen, and without getting
kicked or hit with a stick by a butcher (or someone else). People don't
have any compunction about kicking stray dogs down here.

Even that dog had been involved in a little bit of rational-choice. His
equation:

(Benefit of eating beef)*(probability of actually getting the beef) -
(Cost of getting kicked)*(probability of getting kicked) > 0

Now, I have to admit that I didn't see the actual thievery. But I can
make a pretty good guess about how the deal went down, and it involved
the dog sneaking in behind the butcher's back, and going through a
process (probably instinctual) of evaluating, as he got closer, how the
probability of getting kicked was changing with where the butcher was
standing, and whether he saw the dog or not. In the end (unless the
steak got stolen by some other dog) the analysis seemed to pay off.

This is pretty basic stuff. But at higher levels of development (I mean
that in evolutionary terms, but also in terms of levels of economic
development) we get away from things that we can all agree we need or
want. I know that Zane's utility for having shiny technological toys is
less than his utility for having low (or probably no) debt. I, on the
other hand, have more utility for having the toys.

People in Guatemala often believe that you get a cold when the
temperature changes. I believe you get a cold when you touch a dirty
doorknob.

So, when you start to get sick, the Guatemalans tell you that you should
have bundled up. And I often wander around touching doorknobs with my
sleeve.

Both prescriptions are rational, given a pre-existing set of beliefs.

Both have supposed benefits (not getting sick), and costs (cost of
clothing, the cost of looking strange to the undergrads as you pull your
sleeve down around your hand to open the door). And we all weigh the
costs and benefits when we make our choices.

Neither one seems to work very well though--I seem to have come down
with a cold, as I type this.

I think that, in the case of consumer debt, we're looking at two things:
1. A culture of advertising that has increased the utility of having
the newest and best.
2. A culture that celebrates conspicuous consumption, providing real
utility for living beyond our means (though in a perverse sort of way)
3. A rational choice evaluation which tends to discount future debt.
4. A series of institutional incentives which make it possible to rack
up large amounts of debt without really harming our standard of living
much in the long run.

More broadly, I believe that culture creates a set of informal
institutions which shape our utility matrix--the costs and benefits of
our actions are determined, to a certain extent, by the values held by
others in society. I also think that culture helps us to form beliefs
which tell us what actions to take to pursue our rationally-developed
goals.

I think that both of these things are compatible with rational choice
analysis.

Monday, July 21, 2008

My first visit to Zunil

...well, not strictly my first visit _ever_

I went out to Zunil once last summer, as part of a day trip out to the
Fuentes Geoginas--a local hot springs.

I was talking to earlier this evening, telling her about the experience,
but it's one of those things that I will never be able to express
clearly--one of the reasons why I started in to studying Comparative
Politics, but one of those experiences that will always be lacking in
some ways, because I won't be able to express it clearly to others.

As I told Emily, I came home last summer from my language training down
here with a couple hundred pictures of beautiful, pastoral landscapes,
political signage, stunning colonial-era architecture, and almost no
pictures of people.

I also had not a single picture of myself--all of the pictures of me up
on my web page had to come from somewhere else, since I didn't bother to
have anyone take my picture when I was here.

The same thing is going to happen this summer.

I'm not traveling with anyone, so there's nobody to take my picture.
Further, it's difficult to get pictures of people here. There are two
typical photo subjects--little kids (Guatemalan kids may be the cutest
ever) and people in indigenous garb. But you can't take pictures of
little kids, lest some locals fear that you're taking pictures to sell
their kids abroad (travelers often make light of these fears, but
Guatemala has a large problem with human trafficking) and you often
can't take pictures of the local people, either, because they're very
sensitive, for whatever reason...

So I'll be coming home with landscapes.

But I rode the Chicken Bus out to Zunil today, going through the village
of Almolonga, stopping for twenty minutes to allow a funeral procession
to pass--hundreds of men in their Sunday best (suit jackets and cowboy
hats) and hundreds of women in bright red huipiles--traditional women's
blouses--beautifully woven or embroidered, with hand-woven ribbons in
their hair.

After the procession passed, we drove on through a stunning mountain
valley where even the steep sides of the mountains are covered with
plots of vegetables growing.

In Zunil, I got off the bus, and walked up to the main plaza, passing
the beautiful colonial-era church on the way, and headed into the
municipal building, where I interviewed the mayor and municipal forestry
officer, before wandering around town and getting a few pictures.

Along the way, I passed through the market, where women and men were
selling locally woven clothing, vegetables, and every imaginable product
a Guatemalan farmer could need, from fertilizer to bedroom furniture.

And then on the way back to the bus, I crossed over the river on a
bridge right above a public washing-fountain, where women were washing
clothes by hand, in pools of volcanically-warmed water coming out of a
hot spring besides the river.

All through the day, the mountains were coming in and out of the clouds,
with the clouds sometimes reaching the ground and becoming fog, and
everywhere I walked were local men going to or coming from their fields,
carrying machetes, hoes, and sacks of crops or fertilizer.

I know that my description doesn't even come close to capturing the feel
of the place... the sights, sounds and smells--but I hope that I can
someday express some portion of this experience to my students...

Sunday, July 20, 2008

Obama in the New Yorker

Emily sent me the article about Barack Obama which was the cover feature
(I understand) of the New Yorker--Emily had a strongly negative response
to the article. She felt that it confirms his artificial character (she
refers to him as a "slick law professor.")

She's right, but I'm not so sure that's a bad thing. One of the things
that worries me about Obama is his inexperience and ostensible
idealism. However, the article paints him as someone who talks like an
idealist, but acts like a realist (in a non-I.R. sense). It also paints
him as someone who is willing to work with apparent enemies and rivals
to pursue his personal goals. Lizza, the author, and Emily, are
ambivalent about this characteristic. I'm a little ambivalent about
Obama, but this story doesn't hurt him, in my mind. We really could use
some characters like that--people who can talk trash in front of the
cameras, but work with the opposition the rest of the time.

Of course, I'd prefer that the trash-talking never took place, as well.
But in an imperfect world...

But I personally have my own party allegiances to worry about--it's hard
for me to vote for either McCain or Obama, because of my strong links
with the WPPA.

Wool Pants Part of America '08
Wool Pants: The Pants of the People.

Saturday, July 19, 2008

Market Day

Actually, every day is market day here in Xela. But I walked up the the
Mercado La Democracia, which I hadn't visited when I was here last
year. About what you'd expect. You can buy everything from $1.50
pirated DVD's to the Sony Funstation. That's not typo, folks.
Personally, I got ripped off for the first time this trip (as far as I
can tell) to the tune of $.50 for a bottle of ostensibly purified water
which appears to be a refilled bottle, most likely filled up with a
gentle concoction of Giardiasis and Di-Hydrogen Oxide.

I bought a new billfold--the little denim pouch that I've been using for
years on trip like this has developed a hole that, for the first time,
is big enough to let money fall out (although only the .5 Quetzal coins
that are smaller than dimes. What is a .5 Quetzal, anyways? I think
about half a cent. No big loss.

Billfold cost me about $1.75, though it isn't exactly what I had been
hoping to find.

Rainy and cold here now. But I'm glad I'm here, rather than in the hot
weather in CO, or in the Guatemalan lowlands, for that matter!

Aubrey, if you're reading this, I want you to know that I'm no longer in
the most expensive hotel in town--things are more expensive here in
Xela. Had to settle for a "budget" choice with a small room and a
shared bathroom. Runs about $8/night. Including breakfast. Of course,
we'll see what that consists of tomorrow morning...

But my lodging in Uspántan had a shower with two functioning knobs!
Sometimes, the water actually got too hot!

Stimuli

Not the pavlovian kind.

A couple weeks ago, Zane wrote about a second round of stimulus
checks--he thinks it's a bad idea (I'm a little behind on my blog reading).

I agree.

Shouldn't we really be investing in "automatically adjusting"
counter-cyclical mechanisms, like welfare, health care, and education?
When people lose their jobs, that $400 isn't going to help them. What
might help them would be a job-retraining program, easier availability
of subsidized student loans, and freely available, inexpensive
healthcare, and aid for relocation and bigger unemployment checks might
not be a bad idea as well.

In other news, hospital visits here in Guatemala are paid for by the
government. If only we had such a well-developed healthcare system as
our brethren to the South.

Friday, July 18, 2008

Moving on to Xela

1. Got up this morning.
2. Packed up my stuff (which still fits in a small internal frame
backpack, I'm proud to say)
3. Ate breakfast (got the Típica Especial, rather than my usual, the
Americano--which, is as American as they come, as it consists of
scrambled eggs with ham, refried beans, sour cream, and masa tortillas.
The típica is the same, except that it has fried bananas, too. Knew I
wouldn't be eating until late afternoon, and I thought I needed a little
extra. I was right.)
4. Then headed to the plaza principal to catch a micro (that's
pronounced mee-crow for you speakers of Inglés) out of Uspántan.

Before I continute, three digressions:

Up until today, I felt a little guilty for taking a micro out to
Uspántan when I first went out there--these vans leave every twenty
minutes or so, so they're easier to catch, and they're not much more
expensive than taking the regular old chicken bus, but the chicken bus
is the _real_ way to travel for the _real_ experienced Central American
traveler. Vans are more expensive, but faster, generally more
comfortable, and typically less entertaining. But the locals take these
vans--they're not the same as the tourist vans that cost $15 for a run
between the Guate. airport and Antigua. They're packed in like chicken
buses (26 people in the 15 passenger van at one point today), and
they're driven like chicken buses (that is, insanely).

Second, Emily tells me it's 100 in Boulder. I want all of you people
back home enjoying clean drinking water out of the tap to know two
things. First, I had a coke made with real sugar today, not corn
syrup. Second, it was sunny and about 68 today. Take that!

Third, when I was in Antigua, just before I left, I had this
conversation with an American taking Spanish classes there who told me
that when he described them as "Chicken Buses," his Spanish teacher told
him that "Chicken Bus" is inappropriate, asking him, "Are you a
Chicken?" As I related to Emily earlier today, I told the guy that if
they named them after me, they would be "Gringo Buses," which clearly
isn't appropriate. I've seen far more chickens, pigs, and sacks of
rice, potatoes, and fertilizer on those things than gringos.
"Fertilizer Buses" has a nice ring to it (and the Spanish translation,
"Abono Bus" has the double meaning, "bonus bus"), but the drivers might
take offense. Although they don't use much organic fertilizer down
here. The alternative suggested by this guy eating pancakes at Café
Condesa in Antigua (my second favorite Antigua restaurant--it's like the
Antigua Big Boy) told me that the correct term was "Bus Público," but
that isn't right either. "Public Bus" means public ownership, not that
they're used by the public. Chicken buses are privately owned.

Continuing on...

5. Got a seat in the back of the shuttle, and as the bus headed out of
town, we picked up an indigenous family, the women wearing traditional
clothing. The grandmother (as I imagine she was) wished me a good
morning, then crossed herself as we accelerated around the first
corner. She had good reason, as during the course of the 3-hour ride to
Quiché, at least three people on the fan threw up from motion sickness,
as a result of overly aggressive driving. The driver would take the van
into a corner the way you're supposed to brace a kayak sideways into an
oncoming wave--throw your body violently in the opposite direction from
which the kayak would otherwise roll. In this case, I'm not sure that
the bracing made any difference, except for entertainment value. He
also spent the whole ride either (a) giving king, fatherly advice to the
young boy, a passenger, sitting in the front seat, about how to become a
micro driver, or (b) making wisecracks about the people throwing up in
back ("¡Ay! Bastante negocio hoy.)
6. Changed vehicles in Quiché. I was hoping to pick up a direct bus to
Quetzaltenango (Xela) from Quiché, but the bus had just left, and it was
going to be a while until the next one, so I hopped on a bus to
Guatemala city, planning to get off at Los Encuentros junction, where I
would switch to a Xela-bound bus (hopefully direct from there).
7. It worked. My switch went fine, although getting my backpack out of
the luggage bin on the inside of the bus--probably the least secure
place to put it (but the driver and bus "helper" insisted)--was more
than a little chaotic, though I don't think I caused any bumps or
bruises (¡Jesús! Would it have killed those guys to put it on the
roof?) Although I got totally turned around in Encuentros, I found the
correct spot to pick up the Xela-bound bus (only had to ask four
people!) and with the help of a Guatemalan guy headed my way, made it on
the bus fine. Didn't even lose by backpack (and it got put on the roof
for the second leg!)
8. On the Xela bus, I was crammed in, three to a seat, between a
college student falling asleep on my right shoulder, and a guy hawking
traditional Guatemalan sweets falling asleep on my left shoulder. The
sweets looked and smelled fabulous (it was mid-afternoon by this time,
and I was starving), but I could all but see the amoebic dysentery
crawling around on them.
9. Upon arriving in Xela (thankfully without having to change buses
again), I got off at the "Minerva" terminal, made it through the market
without knocking anybody over with my backpack. Caught another
micro--this one a Xela local--to take me to the center (bus terminal's
probably two miles from the center of town), and although the guy taking
money told me he was going to charge me twice for me and my backpack, I
only had to pay a single fare when the time came. Before I got in the
micro, a taxi driver pointed me to the stop, but tried to sell me a taxi
ride instead, as "Micros stop over there, but a taxi ride is faster and
more comfortable." I told him, "Yes, but I don't have the money for a
taxi," at which he replied, "I'll just take your credit card!" Then he
gave a big belly laugh that made me chuckle myself.
10. Got off near the park, where I found a hotel room at one of Xela's
overpriced, dark and cheerless hotels (but it's a place to stay, and
I'll find something nicer tomorrow.)
11. And got dinner at my favorite restaurant here--pretty good food
with passable coffee--and got on their internet for about an hour.
12. Finally, wandered around Xela for about 45 minutes looking for a
place that sold Diet Coke or Diet Pepsi before heading back to the hotel
room.

A pretty full day!

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Jurisdictional Size

I've been thinking a lot about this issue of "optimal jurisdictional
size," and the dynamics that might make it work... This is what I've
come up with:

First, in any community, there are going to be people who stand to gain
from regulations which lead to sustainable forest practices. These are
probably the majority of people--they stand to gain either because they
will derive some utility from living in a relatively more natural
environment, because of the tangible results of ecosystem degradation
(water sources running dry, etc.), or because they seek to gain more
through sustainable practices over the long term than by the short-term
gains of unsustainable practices that lead to deforestation.


On the other hand, there are probably people in any community who stand
to gain more by lower levels of regulation and enforcement, which will
permit them to harvest more over the short term (in an unsustainable
way). There are a number of reasons why these individuals might want
lower levels of regulation.

These may be individuals who, over the short term, possess the resources
to harvest large amounts of forest and realize that sustainable
management will give them a smaller piece of the pie.

These may also be people who heavily discount future gains, and want
their piece of the pie _now_. It isn't hard to imagine that there are a
lot of people like this in impoverished countries like Guate.

Even so, it might make sense that, in most places and at most times,
people will probably be pretty willing to forgo short-term gains for
greater long-term gains, even if they discount the future somewhat. So
it probably makes sense that, given these two factors, communities will
self-regulate in such a way that they produce a level of regulation
which is sustainable and provides the maximum amount of utility over the
long term. An equilibrium will result, which might be upset by a number
of factors, but in general, short term and long term gains might be
pretty well balanced.

The third point is key here:

In some places, there may be people who will not experience the utility
associated with living in a pleasant, forested environment, and
(probably more important) won't have to deal with the related negative
ecological effects. For example, they get their water somewhere else,
so they won't have to deal with the water problems.

But this problem is more likely where the size of the jurisdictions are
not optimal--in particular, where jurisdictions are large enough that
people in one area can go to another area to cut trees, where the
ecological damage will be felt by other people. Literally, where
jurisdictions are large enough that it is possible for people to
externalize the tangible ecological costs on another community.

So, what you get for any individual is this:

Ucut = M - E - F

where Ucut is the utility derived from cutting trees, M is the monetary
(economic) benefits of cutting trees, E is the ecological cost of
cutting, and F is the foregone cost of future cutting--if you cut it now
and sell it, that means there will be less to cut in the future. Say,
just for the example of argument, that these values all have a round,
positive number. For example, each of them (M, E, and F) are equal to 1.

If you're the guy who lives locally and feels the ecological cost, your
utility for cutting is going to be:

Ucut = 1 - 1 - 1
= -1

In this case, it's negative, which probably means you won't cut the tree
down. This is because (a) you'll gain some economic benefit from
cutting, but (b) you'll feel a cost from ecological damage, and (c)
you'll feel the cost of foregone long-term benefits (because you can't
sell the tree you cut down again).

But if you're the guy who comes from somewhere else, so you won't feel
the ecological cost of cutting, and there aren't any well-defined
property rights, and you're the guy with the resources to go a pretty
long distance to poach trees, your utility will look like this:

Ucut = 1 - 0 - 0
= 1

So, your utility will be positive. You'll do it.

Of course, this is a simplified model, and there are a lot of things
that can alter these values (they're really variables, not always equal
to one). But, this does help to produce some hypotheses:

1. Where individuals have clear property rights (so that the benefit of
trees cut today is a benefit foregone tomorrow), there will be less
forest degradation.
2. Where communities have clear property rights and well-developed
systems of decisionmaking regarding forestry, there will be less forest
degradation.
3. Where boundaries are more environmentally optimal--that is, where
boundaries between individuals' or communities' lands produce fewer
ecological externalities--forest degradation will be less.

In addition, at the municipal level, these individual-level effects will
have political consequences, but I think I'll save that for another blog
posting.

Not such a great day

Got attacked by mean dogs, and wasn't able to find my interviewee...

At least there was a beautiful walk involved, though. And I was fast
enough that I didn't get bit. One of these days I'll have enough
internet that I'll be able to put together a couple more pictures to
upload to the blog.

I walked up to a little village just over Uspántan, where the locals
claimed not to know the guy I was looking for. And they said, "today,
almost nobody here is home." It was pretty clear that they were
reluctant to talk to me themselves. Figured that was a good sign not to
press it.

I think I'm going to wind things up here for a while, then give it
another go in a week or two. Think I'm going to go to Santa Eulalia,
which is even more rural, and further up in the highlands. Either on
the way out or the way back, I'll make a stop in Sacapulas or
Huehuetenango. Sacapulas is a little place about an hour and a half
east of here, and Huehue is a medium-sized place--one of the bigger
places in the highlands, which is the jumping-off point for a trip to
Santa Eulalia.

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

A verification

I had another interview this morning, with a middle-aged Guatemalan
gentleman who works with the Italian NGO Movimondo (not associated with
the Telefonika line of prepaid cellular phones). It was a fantastic
interview--he clearly had the time to talk, which sure helps, but I
think I may be getting better at the whole interviewing thing. About
damn time.

Anyways, I have three things to write about, but I think I'll leave the
second and third ideas for another day. The first of these things is a
confirmation by this guy that some of my ideas about the civil war (that
is, the Guatemalan armed conflict), civil society and social capital,
collective action dilemmas, and historical institutionalism

First, broadly, a number of the ideas presented by historical
institutionalists like Steinmo, Thelen, and others, deals with the
notion of "punctuated equilibria," in which exogenous shocks lead to a
change in an existing political equilibrium, and that, given an
exogenous shock, there is a rapid change which results, eventually, in a
new equilibrium.

More specifically, when you look at the history of Guatemala over the
last fifty years, one of the primary dynamics is the military regime
that ruled Guatemala until recently, and the civil war that took place
in a particularly brutal way in this part of the highlands.

We might view the civil war as an "exogenous shock," which has altered a
pre-existing equilibrium in a particularly unpleasant way, leading to an
equilibrium, at least in places like Uspántan, which resembles a "race
to the bottom."

What happened, basically, from the mid-1960s until the mid-1990s,
especially in the early 1980s, was that the Guatemalan Army pursued a
scorched earth campaign in those parts of the highlands which were
perceived to be sympathetic to the Marxist guerrillas who (the Army
thought) was sheltered there by the local population. They burned
villages, relocated the people, and killed, drove off, or intimidated
community spokes-people.

Without any prompting, during my interview today, the guy who I was
talking to basically told me a story that I had hypothesized for a long
time.

In the process of eliminating alternative sources of power (because the
Army viewed any independent organizations as potential guerrilla
supporters, so they tried to eliminate any organization and any
leadership in society, except for that which was associated with
anti-Marxist paramilitaries), the Army did a very good job of "cutting
the social fabric" of these rural highland communities. The result is
that these communities are "not well organized," and have a hard time
creating and enforcing rules about forestry and timber harvest, among
other things.

When they killed local leaders, they eliminated the people who could
have orchestrated local collective action, either because they were the
people who were viewed with respect by the local population, or because
they were the centers of social networks around which collective action
could be organized.

When they eliminated local organizations, the Army eliminated the
"political spaces," fora, and pre-existing networks for collective
action which could have been used to agree on and manage rules about
timber management.

Therefore, my hypotheses are as follows:

First, where the civil war was most severe (measured, presumably, by
indicators of the intensity of violence, like deaths), forestry-related
outcomes will be poorer, because civil society networks were eliminated
in those places, making collective action more difficult.

Second, where civil society bonds are stronger in general (that is,
where social networks are "thicker"), and therefore, where collective
action is easier, forestry-related outcomes will be better.

So what I need (if such things exist), is a dataset with municipal-level
data on the severity of the armed conflict, and another one on the
thickness of civil society and social bonds.

These are ideas which I've had bouncing around in my head for a while,
but which literally came right out of the mouth of an individual who
lives and works here, and has worked with the Guatemalan government and
NGOs in development for over thirty years.

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Internet!

So, it works! I've been able to thread my internet connection through
my nifty new cell phone. Totally thrilled about that.

In other news, I'm (a) thrilled that Aubrey made it back from the other
side of the earth without falling off, and (b) amazed at how quickly
Heather got a dog.

Aubrey...

has a "larder"?

Monday, July 14, 2008

Jurisdictional Optimality

First off, I think I've figured out how to connect to the internet
through a bluetooth connection to my cell phone. Finding a GSM cell
phone with bluetooth capabilities was a bit of an adventure in and of
itself--I wound up with a nifty (and questionable) Motorola Razr labeled
"Cingular," which I can use with my Telefonika "Movistar" or my "Tigo"
GSM chip. Tigo offers pay-by-the-minute internet connections, and I'm
able to thread the internet through the cell phone into the laptop. I
know it _can_ work, because I got it to work for about a minute this
afternoon. Since then, something's been up with the Tigo network, and I
can't get on. But hopefully, I'll be able to connect soon, and post
these blog postings--a pretty good stack of them by now.

Buying the phone, by the way, was awesome. It involved haggling in a
market with a very helpful indigenous woman in traditional dress,
questionable packaging, the smell of rotten fruit... the works. I'm a
terrible haggler, but I still managed to get her from 1700 to 1100
Quetzales (still a lot of money, but if it works...) I asked to see the
box, which she had (somewhat amazingly), though it looked like it had
made a couple trips on the roof of a bus with the pigs and potatoes. It
even came with a charger, a USB cable, and a CD-ROM. And a couple of
"bonus" pictures of videos and photos taken with the phone's camera of
Guatemalan guys and gals

All right, so here's the (not so) brilliant theoretical speculation for
the week...

I've been thinking a lot about the differences between Uspantán and
Santa Catarina Barahona--both seem to have relatively well-functioning
muni. governments, even though there are some pretty compelling reasons
(like the overall level of corruption in Guatemalan politics) to think
that they shouldn't work that well.

But Uspantán has really poor forestry-related outcomes, both
qualitatively and quantitatively, including only one municipal employee
in forestry (who doesn't seem to do much...), a very small percentage of
the budget spent in forestry, and a pretty rapid rate of deforestation.

The biggest difference is size--Uspantán is huge, but I think it's more
than just the size-to-resource ratio that's making this work.

I think there's a rational choice story to tell here about optimal
jurisdictional size.

There's some work that's been done in American politics, and I believe,
some in Comparative as well, that examines the effects of multi-purpose
jurisdictions (like municipalities) compared to single-purpose
jurisdictions (like school districts and water districts). There's also
some work in American Politics that theorizes about the nature of the
optimal jurisdictional size. What I have in mind is Ferejohn and
Weingast's _Can the States be Trusted?_, which basically argues that,
for each policy area, there is an optimal jurisdictional size and shape,
and therefore, some tasks are best handled at the (centralized) level of
the state (that is, the country), some are best handled at the level of
the region (states in the U.S.), and some are best handled at lower
levels--like towns, school districts, counties, parishes, and water
districts.

One of the ideas expressed by the contributors to the book, which is an
edited volume (Maybe McKinnon and Nechyba?), argues that one of the
tricks to setting jurisdictional size is making jurisdictions (states or
cities or whatever) of a size so that the individuals who bear the costs
of pursuing a particular policy (the costs of infrastructure
development, presumably, or the costs of enforcement, or whatever) also
are the same people that experience the benefits. It's not fair to have
all the people in a huge jurisdiction paying for benefits (like urban
sidewalks and streetlights) that only a relatively small number of
people can enjoy on a regular basis.

What they don't get into in the book is _why_ sub-optimal jurisdictional
sizes are not only an _ethical_ problem, but also a practical problem.
This is where my idea comes in.

Say, for the sake of argument, there exist two jurisdictions. The first
of these is relatively small--about 10 square kilometers, and is all
within the same municipal watershed, and isn't easily subdivided into
smaller neighborhoods or villages. In general, illegal cutting of trees
in this jurisdiction (let's just call this place, for the sake of
argument, Santa Catarina) might benefit the people doing the cutting,
but if they are from outside the jurisdiction, the local government has
no reason to care about their benefits (they can't vote for or against
the mayor, after all), and if they are from inside the jurisdiction,
they will also share the costs of the cutting. Maybe in this place,
illegal cutting might lead to watershed degradation, or maybe it might
just reduce the amount of wood that will be available in the future for
exploitation. In a place like this, the costs of enforcement are borne
by the same people who experience the benefits of (a) a reliable water
supply, and (b) sustainable forestry practices over the long term.

The second jurisdiction, called Uspántan, however, is much bigger (about
750 square kilometers), and takes a lot longer to get around (probably
about a nine hour drive, from tip to tip). It also encompasses a large
number of smaller, easily definable units (villages, or "Aldeas"), and a
number of small, local watersheds. In addition, although there are
forest properties which are owned privately, there are also properties
which are owned by the aldeas as communities, but all of the enforcement
takes place at the level of the municipality and higher (there are, for
example, national police in Guatemala).

In this second municipality, people have a strong incentive to manage
their local forests sustainably, and in a way which will preserve local
ecosystems (including watersheds). However, people in one aldea have
relatively weak incentives to care about effective enforcement in the
municipality as a whole (they really only have a reason to care about
the local area), and in fact, a fairly large number of people may enjoy
some significant benefits from cutting illegally in other areas--they
cut somebody else's trees, and enjoy all the economic benefits of
selling the lumber, while experiencing none of the costs, or at least
none of the costs from the cutting they do themselves (they may
experience the costs of the whole arrangement).

Further, officials at the local level may experience fairly strong
(though difficult-to-observe) pressure from individuals who benefit from
a weak enforcement regime--the people cutting illegally may pressure the
mayor and other local political figures _not_ to enforce rules very
strictly, because they stand to lose a lot from effective enforcement.

It also isn't hard to imagine that these dynamics would be encouraged by
Guatemala's electoral laws, which facilitate the persistence of a large
number of parties and factions, while requiring a mayor only receive a
plurality of votes at the local level. Due to the large numbers of
parties/factions involved, Mayors may only receive a 15% or 20% share of
the vote at the local level, but still be the highest vote-getter.
Under these circumstances, it would make sense for politicians to pursue
more clientilist or particularist electoral strategies, rather than
pursuing strategies aimed at the median voter.

If I'm right, two things should be true:
1. Larger municipalities should experience poorer forestry-related
outcomes, including outcomes in policy choices such as percentage of
budget expended in forestry, and number of employees in forestry
enforcement and monitoring.
2. This effect should not be washed out by a variable (forestry
officials per square km.) designed to capture resource scarcity relative
to size.

There is a problem, though, which is endogeneity, which might wash out
these effects, statistically, now that I think about it. I'm going to
have to give that one some thought.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Immigration and Inequality

Take that, Lou Dobbs!

So, I'm riding back in one of the "micros" that have apparently replaced
converted school buses out here in recent years...

For those of you unfamiliar with Latin American travel, the way this
works is as follows:

They take a 15 passenger van, add a snorkel kit and a roof rack for
luggage, chemical fertilizer, pigs, chickens, and baskets of vegetables,
and they make a couple of wooden, removable seats to put in the places
where there is not (and, Por Díos, there should not be) seating in these
vans. Then, they cram in nineteen adults, three small children, a
couple (three? four?) people on the roof, plus a couple 150 lb. bags of
rice and sugar, and enough chemical fertilizer to blow up the Oklahoma
City federal building, then they take the whole thing and drive it down
a washed-out road that's a major transportation artery here, but
wouldn't count as a forest service road in the states. Meanwhile, you
listen to wise-cracking ladino farmers insulting the van, the driver,
and one another...

Incidentally, though I have been known to exaggerate from time to time
(it runs in the family), I exaggerate nothing here, except for the part
about domestic terrorism. On the other hand, I'm not up on my Ragnar
Benson, and it is entirely possible that the piles of fertilizer in that
van today might have been enough to build a fairly sizeable bomb in a
Ryder truck.

But I digress.

So I'm riding back in the "micro," and the peace corps worker who took
me out to the rural village to do an interview tells me a story about
immigration...

Traditionally, the poor indigenous people of the Guatemalan highlands
have worked in the rainy season up on their property in the highlands,
then they go down, during the dry season, to work picking coffee and
other agricultural products in the estates of large landowners to earn
enough cash to make ends meet. Rigoberta Menchú chronicles this in her
book.

In any event, the Peace Corps guy tells me that the landowners have, as
of late, had to pay higher wages to their workers, and improve the
working conditions under which they labor. The reason is immigration.

Just as O'Rourke and Williamson predict (what year was that?),
immigration draws excess labor from the poor countries, where cheap
labor is plentiful, and it deposits it in the rich countries, where
labor is scarce and costly. In doing so, it drives up the cost of labor
in the poor places (like the Coffee Fincas of Guatemala), and decreases
it in the rich countries (like in Detroit).

Of course, since the average poor Guatemalan is a hell of a lot poorer
than the average poor American, I think we should encourage this. God
only knows that the living conditions of even the poorest of the poor up
in Gringolandia are better than the average moderately prosperous
Guatemalan, who lives without potable water, without a car or other mode
of transport, certainly without central heating, and probably without
sewage. Most likely also with a dirt floor, thatched roof, intestinal
parasites and enough refried beans to drive me insane...

But, of course, there are costs of immigration in the rich countries.
It hurts the people in Michigan. It hurts the factory workers. But we
are a rich country, with a well-developed taxation infrastructure, and
we can afford to help out the people who are harmed by the adjustment
effects.

We should be allowing more immigration. But we should also be working
much harder to help out the unemployed people in Detroit retrain,
re-educate, and re-locate, if they so choose.

I don't know about you, but I'm perfectly willing to pay a little bit
more in taxes so that the average Guatemalan highlander doesn't need to
be abused and exploited, and so that the average Detroit assembly-line
worker doesn't have to sit around, unemployed, with insufficient
education and no hope.

If we believe in free markets, free trade, and the free movement of
goods across borders, it would be ideologically inconsistent to oppose
the free movement of people.

But it would also be stupid to trust that the market itself will fix
everything for us. Government needs to step up to the plate, so that
the frustration of the "Discontents of Globalization" doesn't threaten
the gains of the Guatemalans and all of the other poor, hard-working
people in this world.

Friday, July 11, 2008

Some Speculations

I did another couple of interviews today--three, in all. Not a bad
day's work. This brings me up to a total of five for Uspantán, which is
not a bad number for only having been in town for about two full days
(and a little bit more).

I would say, at this point, that I have some speculations about
Uspantán, and the reasons why it is such a low outlier.

First, there are some questions of measurement error and accuracy. The
data which is gathered here, at the level of the municipality, in the
forestry surveys I'm using to pick these cases masks a tremendous amount
of intra-municipality diversity. This would not have been a problem in
Santa Catarina Barahona, where the municipality was quite small, and the
aggregate-level dynamics weren't as noticeable. This is really a
notable problem, for one thing, because this level of analysis--the
municipality--is pretty small, compared the the national-level dynamics
which we often use in Comparative Politics. Presumably, in those cases,
these problems are even worse.

So forestry-level outcomes are likely not reflected accurately in terms
of the municipality-level outcomes we measure here, and this is likely
an even bigger problem for a number of independent variables. For
example, if poverty is a driver of these forestry outcomes, the per
capita income won't reflect the level (and concentration) of poverty in
the municipality, and therefore, the results will be biased for this
case, because poverty will be concentrated in rural regions of the
municipality, away from the main road, and therefore, deforestation will
be concentrated in those places.

I might get some of this effect by incorporating my geographic surface
area variable into the models, but that probably won't get all of it. A
better way to do it would be to use a multi-level model (with
measurement at the level of the Aldea--hamlet--or at the level of the
individual as well as the level of the municipality.) But, of course,
this would require going out and gathering all of this data again.

Maybe that's my next big project, after (a) the dissertation, (b) my
paper on the drug war, (c) the paper on education, (d) the paper on
populism I will eventually get around to talking to Zane about...

Second, there may be something of a problem of concept validity in terms
of some of the independent variables we're looking at. For example,
there is one person employed by the municipal government in forestry,
however, the measure of "one person employed in forestry," translated
into a percentage of total municipal employees in forestry fails to take
into account if that individual is especially effective or ineffective,
well-trained or not, respected by the community or not, etc...

Again, this is another issue which I may not be able to incorporate into
the current quantitative analysis, unless there's something I haven't
thought of yet.

Bloody cold here right now! I'm wearing two thermal shirts, and I'm
still shivering!

Take that, Boulder at 105 degrees!

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Some general impressions

Had my first interviews here today. I met with the mayor at his office
in the Municipal building (which looks like a disaster area, by the
way. Piles of tires and building material and what appeared to be a
hospital gurney...)

But the interview went well.

The mayor was an amicable guy. Answered all my questions, and took
plenty of time with me, considering there was a pretty long line waiting
for him out the door. But I wouldn't say that I got a hell of a lot out
of the interview.

More useful was a talk I had with one of the local Peace Corps
volunteers here in town--she gave me quite a bit of good information
about what's going on, which actually generally lined up pretty well
with what the mayor said.

In general, at least at first glance, Uspantán looks, like Santa
Catarina Barahona, like a reasonable case of good governance. It sounds
like the mayor and Vice are genuinely concerned about the welfare of
their people, or at least realize that doing a good job for them is an
important part of staying employed as politicians.

But forestry isn't a major concern. Quite the contrary. There are a
lot of bigger problems out here, including infrastructure, education,
water... all compounded by the effects of the brutal Guatemalan civil
war, and by the great size of the municipality.

So I need to try out some of those things in the data and see if they
work...

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Uspantán

Made it to Uspantán with no hitch, and I even managed to find a place
that served burgers this morning in Sta. Cruz. Of course, I wasn't on
the lookout for burgers, but breakfast. Who the hell wants a
cheeseburger at 9:30 in the morning? And who's ever heard of a café
that served burgers but not breakfast?

But I'll take what I can get.

I love the fact that you don't get ketchup and mustard with your
hamburger down here--you get ketchup and green chile sauce.

So all is well. I checked out a budget place here in town for about
$3/night, but I upgraded to a $10/night place which is a little nicer,
including having a private bathroom and what appears to be real,
two-pipe hot water. At least there's two knobs in the shower, and both
work, and no electrical attachment on the shower head. We'll see
tomorrow morning if the water actually gets hot.

Almost as soon as I came into town, I bumped into a peace corps
volunteer here--I told her what I was doing, and she told me to come by
the municipal tourism office and she would introduce me to some people
in the municipal government. So I'll stick my head in in the morning
and see.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Calvinism is what you make it...

Man, they were not kidding about this "rainy season" business... It's
pouring out, once again.

This is my third blog posting for today, but I don't know how long it's
going to be until I'll be able to post these. As I'm writing this, it's
July 8, but I might not be able to get this up online for another couple
of weeks, depending on what the internet situation is in Uspantan. It's
not hard to imagine that wi-fi might be hard to come by in such a place.

The last couple of days, I've been listening to Nathaniel Philbrick's
_The Mayflower_ on tape (actually, on my iPod), which is a really
interesting history of the settlement of the Plymouth colony, leading up
to the time of King Philip's War forty (I think) years later.

According to Philbrick, the pilgrims were (a) fanatical, (b) bloody, and
(c) ruthless, and the Indians surrounding the colony were not the
benevolent helpers they are made out to be in high school history
texts. Rather, the Native American groups surrounding Plymouth were
eager to manipulate the Pilgrims as a way to become a dominant regional
power, in a way that would look familiar to International Relations
realists like Mearscheimer or Walt. Squanto, for example, every
schoolboy's favorite noble savage, attempted (but failed) to use the
Pilgrims to catapault him to the status of the most powerful regional
Native leader--in a true sense, to make him the head of a regional
hegemon by attempting to convince them to attack a rival tribe.
Massasoit, another Native leader, successfully pulled of the same plot a
few years later.

Indeed, it seems to me that one could make an argument that the Pequots,
Massachusetts and other New England Native tribes were "states" in the
Realist sense of the term, and they certainly played a game of
balance-of-power that looks an awful lot like the politics played at the
Congress of Vienna.

Santa Cruz del Quiché

Managed to make it to Quiché without getting my luggage stolen, and
without getting pickpocketed (that I've noticed). So far, so good.

I was a little nervous about this trip--I haven't traveled with my
computer on chicken buses until now, and I was concerned about it, but
it seems to have worked out pretty well.

As those of you who have traveled in places like this know, they love
the speedbumps down here. Three or four, at least, in every little
town. Guess that's what you have to do when the cops aren't reliable.
On the way up here, I wound up in the very last seat in the bus.
Remember when you were in 5th grade and you loved that seat, because any
time you went over a bump you popped up in the air a foot or two?

Yeah.

Take that picture, and replace your fifth grade self with a neurotic 30
year old with an ostentatious moustache. And a computer he's addicted
to. Every time we hit a bump, I wondered if the computer had made it
through THAT one.

To be honest, part of me is inclined to leave the computer at home when
I go to Bolivia, but I frankly don't know how I would do this research
without it. Not only have I been typing up case studies and working on
putting my thoughts down with the computer (so much faster than writing
it out by hand, which is probably the alternative), but I've been
plugging away at some data analysis this whole time, which (I think) has
been pretty productive.

But I'm typing this, which means everything seems to be working
correctly--a good sign, at least.

I checked out of my room in Antigua (thrilled to be getting out of the
Disney of Guatemala, by the way) at about 8, and was on a bus to
Chimaltenango at about 8:15. Less than an hour of listening to the "to
Chimaltenango song" from the bus helper (the guy who puts your bags on
the roof and collects your fare) and I was in Chimal...

Chimal a chimal a chimal chimal a
Chimal a chimal a chimal chimal a
Chimal a chimal a chimal chimal a
Chimal a chimal a chimal chimal a

And although I almost lost by backpack when I got dropped off (who knew
that "it's underneath" meant "it's under the last seat, inside,
Gringo"?) I managed to catch my connection to Quiché just fine, and
without having some wheeler-dealer talk me into taking a more
complicated route...

Chimaltenango, by the way, may just be the most unattractive town I've
seen, anywhere around the world. And that includes Livengood, Alaska
(on the off chance that you've been there). Like Newark, it seems to
have the uncanny ability to support a local economy made completely up
of auto body shops and tire shops. But things sound like they're
getting better in Newark. And it at least has its own airport.

But I shouldn't complain. The bus ride here also takes you through some
of the most beautiful country anywhere in the world--and it's not just
beautiful scenery. The scenery is matched by the salient presence of
very strong cultural traditions, visible everywhere you look in the
dress and mannerisms of the locals. A proud people with strong
traditions.

Here in Quiché, I've even seen several men in traditional costume, which
is very unusual in other parts of Guatemala.

Santa Cruz itself is a busy, dusty town with little in the way of
attractions to bring tourists here, except for good transportation
connections to most of the rest of the country. But it's within a
couple minutes walk of beautiful countryside, and one of the more
intriguing archaeological sites in the country.

Útatlan is the site of the last stand of the Quiché Mayan State, which
was defeated there by Pedro de Alvarado, after the Quiché experienced an
earlier defeat at Xelajú (now Quetzaltenango, which all the locals still
call Xela). The site is still revered by the Maya, and the site is the
site of several current-day altars.

When I went there, earlier today, several of these altars were still
smoking from earlier ceremonies, and in one place, I spoke to a Mayan
family which appeared to be resting up after just having completed a
ceremony.

They were hanging out at the mouth of a cave under the complex of ruins,
which, it is believed, was a place of refuge for the Mayan women during
the conquest, so that they wouldn't be raped by the Spanish. The story
goes, one of the people killed in the cave during the invasion was the
Quiché princess who was the last of the royal line--so literally, the
cave is seen as the place of death of the Quiché kingdom.

After I wandered around the ruins a bit, I headed back to Sta. Cruz on
foot--it's only 1Q out to the site by colectivo, and another 1Q back
(about 15 cents each way) but I wanted to get a view of the countryside,
and I hoped to get some pictures. I'll post some when I have better
internet access again.

Globalization is...

When the Guatemalan guy in front of you on the Chicken Bus is wearing a
Homestar Runner t-shirt.

http://www.homestarrunner.com

Sunday, July 6, 2008

The Circus!

Went to the circus tonight!

Not really sure that deserves an exclamation point. One might
accurately describe this circus as "ghetto." However, it was certainly
an entertaining experience, though not, I think, in quite the way the
owners/performers/animal handlers/acrobats intended.

Apparently, the ingredients for a Guatemalan circus include:
1. Two by fours and plastic chairs--for seating
2. An ostrich, a rabbit, and a parrot--for ambiance
3. One feedback-enhanced audio system.
4. One spongebob squarepants suit--for frightening the children
5. One strobe light
6. One trampoline
7. One fog machine
8. About fifteen seconds of fog
9. One dirty sheet, a pulley, an acrobat, and three guys to pull him
up--for the Cirque de Soleil portion of the show.
10. Two clown suits
11. A crossbow
12. One arrow (Literally. They had one arrow for the crossbow.)
13. Four balloons
14. One skimpily dressed woman--to hold the balloons in her teeth.
15. A mangy monkey
16. A pony
17. The theme song to "Hawaii Five O"

Add about fifty audience members and some deep-fried pasta. Mix well.
Serve.

Heather's Weeding

No typo--I have come to refer to them as "Weedings," because of the way
they help to purge all the undesirable couples through the pain and
heartbreak of planning the ceremony and reception.

I personally think she should wait until late next Sept. to get
married--I'll be back then.

But of course, my opinion is, to say the least, secondary in the matter.

Heather, congratulations to you both, and good luck with the process of
planning it all!

Saturday, July 5, 2008

Strategic Interaction

I could spend a lot more time here in Antigua, eating pancakes and pie
(and Guatemala's famed "Pollo Campero," which is their knockoff KFC,
although the locals all swear that Campero is the original).

But I'm getting ready to roll on, probably up to Uspantan, up in the
central highlands. I've spent about two weeks hanging around Santa
Catarina, and the last couple interviews haven't turned up a lot of new
information, though they have helped me to crystallize my thoughts a bit
about the place.

So I've started to write up an account of Santa Catarina, which as I see
it, does confirm the effects of institutional mechanisms posited in
Krister's earlier work (as it should, since it's right on the regression
line.)

But I've been thinking a lot about a potential problem in this
work--this is an idea which I wrote about earlier, but it's been preying
on my mind quite a bit the last couple of times I've sat down to type
this case study up...

One of the institutional mechanisms which scholars of Krister's ilk
believe is important in promoting desirable forestry outcomes is
electoral accountability. If local voters punish local politicians who
fail to promote the kinds of forestry outcomes the locals want to see,
then politicians will tend to pursue those desired outcomes.

There's a problem, though, that has to do with the way we're measuring
"citizen demands" for forestry.

On one hand, where people demand better forestry outcomes, you're likely
to see better outcomes over the long term. Over the short term, though,
the places with a large number of citizen demands for forestry are
likely the ones that have really screwed up forestry outcomes. People
complain--make "citizen demands" for forestry--when things aren't going
the way they want them to go, and they won't complain so much when
things are going all right.

So there's an endogeneity problem.

There's an issue of strategic interaction here that creates the
problem. Mayors that know locals are going to demand improved forestry
outcomes--like in Sta. Catarina, where the mayor knows that if a lot of
deforestation takes place, the deforestation will mess up the watershed,
and the sources of water will start to dry up. The people know this,
too, but it hasn't happened yet. And it probably won't happen, either.
The mayor knows that he'll be out of a job if he lets the water sources
run dry (because of deforestation), so he will work pretty hard to make
sure that said deforestation doesn't take place.

And as long as he does his job, there will be nothing to complain about.

So what the mayor is concerned about is not the citizen
complaints/demands. Because they haven't happened yet. Because he's
done his job pretty well.

What he's worried about are the potential for future complaints/demands,
and future electoral punishment, as a result of a failure to prevent a
big problem with the water.

But if we measure citizen concern for water protection or forestry
management by using a variable that is the "frequency of citizen
demands," we'll be missing out on this strategic interaction effect. So
we need to figure out a way to instrument for "citizen demands"

Of course, instrumental variables are hard to come by. But I wonder if
a geographic instrumental variable might do the trick. Edwin
Castellanos tells me that this water-protection dynamic is primarily a
phenomenon in the highlands. So I might be able to construct an
instrument using ArcGIS, or just by using a geographic variable like
"altitude," which I have already.

But then that leaves out the possibility that people might be demanding
forest conservation for other reasons--the most notable one maybe being
the desire to protect resources in a sustainable fashion for economic
reasons--maybe for the purposes of logging.

mmm...

Friday, July 4, 2008

The Fourth of July (Again)

I am sitting on the patio of the little guesthouse I'm staying in in
Antigua, listening to the Guatemalans shooting off fireworks, apparently
in honor of the US independence day.

Of course, there may be some capitalist impulse to all of this--it sure
can't hurt business if all the rich Gringos feel at home--but it really
makes me think about the very helpful, warm nature of Guatemalans, and
their willingness to be open and friendly.

I have, of course, run into tourists who have gotten ripped off a time
or two, but I have thus far been pretty lucky in avoiding that myself,
though I'm sure the time will come. The fact of the matter is, I've
also gotten ripped off in Connecticut, where I grew up.

But I've also experienced so much warmth down here at the hands of the
locals.

Guatemala isn't a place, either, that has imagined grievances up about
the United States--among other things, the US sponsored a coup back in
1953 that toppled the first democratically elected government here, and
the country was exploited at the hands of the United Fruit Company (now
Dole fruit) for decades before and after. So Guatemalans have a right
to be angry at the US, if they choose to be.

But instead, when I tell Guatemalans that I'm from the states, their
response usually has something to do with the fact that they either (a)
wish they could go to the United States to work, (b) they have relatives
who are in the United States, or (c) they have been there themselves.

And of course, they wonder why it's become so hard for them to travel to
the states--"Mucho trabajo ¿si?" And I always say, "yes, of course,"
and tell them about how much fear there seems to be in the states of
foreigners. They know, of course. Many of these people have
experienced a tremendous amount of racism here in their own homeland, at
the hands of people who are "whiter" than them. But I was really struck
by the comments of a Guatemalan I met last year, who said something
like, "How can people from the USA be so afraid of us--you are so rich
and powerful, and we are a tiny, poor country."

And of course, he had a point.

How, on God's green earth, can we convince ourselves that people from
these countries are a threat to our way of life, especially when they're
mostly coming to the US so that they can get a little bit of that apple
pie for themselves.

But I have been taking pleasure, when the opportunity presents itself,
in being able to tell them that both candidates running for president
this time around are in favor of fewer immigration restrictions.

More Pictures






Since the picture-posting feature seems to be working better today, I wanted to put up these pictures of Sta. Catarina that I tried (but failed) to post a couple days ago.

More Meetings at the UVG


I met yesterday with Sandra de Urioste-Stone and Edwin Castellanos, two professors at the University del Valle, Guatemala, with whom I talked about choosing my second and third Guatemalan cases--a high outlier and a low outlier. These guys are colleagues of Krister, and have been very helpful to me so far, in providing general information about the forest situation in Gutemala (originally) and now, in providing some specific information about cases that I am interested in studying specifically.

They made up for me a map (using ArgGIS--I asked) of the potential cases that I was thinking about doing as outliers in Guatemala. I'm going to put that in here, so y'all can see how fantastic these guys are. Uploading images to Blogger, I've found, is a little questionable and slow at times, so this may work or not.

I chose a series of outliers and a typical case based on the Lieberman article (2006, I think) about case selection--since there have been three outcome variables in Krister's past publications using this type of data, I tried to find cases that were outliers in all three regression models, and all on the same side (in other words, municipalities that have low outcomes in all three variables, instead of high in one and low in another--there seem to be quite a few cases like this, where there the community is a low outlier in terms of "forestry personnel as a share of total municipal employees" and a high outlier in terms of "percent of municipal budget in forestry".

I think this is a story about clientilism, but there are other combinations of these variables, some of which may be due to measurement error (mayors may not, for example, know how much of their budget is in forestry).

But I wanted two outlier cases that were really high or really low. So I tried to find cases that are consistent.

And I came up with this list of about thirteen or so, plus the "typical case" that I'm doing, which is Santa Catarina Barahona.

Broadly, what Edwin and Sandra suggested to me would be to choose two cases which were geographically close--the result would be a high and a low case which have similar ethnic makeup, pretty similar ecological dynamics, and where I have controlled for a range of other variables through the statistical process. They then suggested that the next step would be to contact the people who actually conducted the surveys in these places, to see if there is any further information I could get out of them that would help me pick which pair of cases would be most appropriate.

They seemed to shy away from Totonicapan, a consistently high outlier which has been pretty heavily studied in the past--they seem to think that I wouldn't be adding as much if I went there. I haven't read any other academic work on this municipality, but I also wonder if prior work would make much of a difference in terms of the kind of research I'm trying to do: mixed-method research where the case studies reinforce or enrich the statistical analysis. But I'll probably take their advice.

They seemed big on Uspantan (it's the T-shaped municipality in the map, above), which was one place I wanted to go, anyways, although it is different in some ways from Sta. Catarina, most notably in the size of its municipal staff and budget. But I may go back to the data to double-check--they seemed to think that my concerns were exaggerated.

I guess I'll take a look and see...

Día de Independencia

Happy 4th of July, all.

And Heather, congrats.

For those of you who haven't heard (probably not many of you, since I'm
all the way down here and you all are up there), she just got engaged.

I know that she thinks that it took too long, but I was thinking about
how long Emily and I dated before we got engaged, and it was about the
same amount of time. Emily and I met on August 21, 1998, and I asked
her to marry me on (I'm going to get this wrong) May 17, 2001.

Can't say I've ever regretted it, either. Although I know that Emily
wished at a few points in there that I hadn't taken as long.

Our engagement took place on top of Donnelly Dome, which is a small
mountain that sits on US Army land, back about fifty or so miles from
the Alaska Range, near Delta Junction, Alaska. Beautiful place, from
which you can see both the Alaska range and a good swath of the interior.

She didn't believe me when I asked her. Her immediate reply was, "Shut
up! You're such a jerk!"

I hasten to add that, it being Alaska, I was also wearing a .44 Magnum
for bear protection (which I later sold for a new pair so skis--a fair
trade).

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Another Interview

Hey All! (That's me quoting former Vinalhaven Social Studies teacher
Karol Kucinsky, known fondly as KK).

What follows is a hypothetical conversation between me and the venerable KK:

KK: Hey All!
Me: Hi KK. There's just one of me. You look chipper. Good day?
KK: Is the pope Polish?
Me: No. He's German. So you're feeling terrible?
KK: I'm great! Just made a trip to the dump...
Me: So you are terrible.
KK: ...and I made some great finds!
Me: No pianos, I hope.
KK: ...seven claw-foot bathtubs...
Me: The cast-iron kind?
KK: ...three radiators, and a whole stack of windows.
Me: Storm windows, or double-paned?
KK: Rice paper. They're not very weatherproof, but they're very light!
Me: I'll be going now...
KK: So what are you doing this afternoon?

.....

In other news, I pulled off another interview today, with a poetic
middle-aged Santa Catarinian. I'm not sure I got a lot of new
information, but I got a hell of a kick out of the interview. Really
fun! What follows is a roughly translated account of a part of the
conversation we had, as I described to Emily.

They asked me about the project, and I told them I was going to be
traveling to Peru and Bolivia. They replied, "that must cost a lot,"
and I said, "yes, and that's hard. But the hardest part is that my wife
has to be back in the states." He then said something like:

I have spoken to many Guatemalans who have traveled to the United States
And they say that it is a wonderful place.
But even so, they miss their homeland--it is never the same.
And thus it is for you.
And worse because
When a man is away from his woman
Though they have two hearts
They are really of a single heart.
And even a man, yes, a man will really weep for being apart from his wife.
That is very hard.
May God be with you as as you do your work, so far from your family and
homeland.
And may god bless your work
And make all your efforts a success.

As his wife sat by, nodding her approval.

He also liked to accentuate a point in the conversation by grabbing the
handle of his machete, which was sitting on the table next to him, which
kind of freaked me out.

Super-nice guy, though.

I also took some more pictures of Sta. Catarina and San Antonio (next
door) which I'll add in here. I tried to take some pictures that give a
taste of what life is like here--it would be nice to have something like
that to show to students when explaining what my own academic research
is about--but I always feel so strange taking pictures of places where
people are around.

And anyways, the pictures never really capture the event...

Anyways, I took these pictures, but blogger is acting funny with the
picture upload feature, so they may not get up today. If not, I'll put
them up in another couple of days.

I was out walking the other day, before one of my interviews on Friday,
and I got out of town, into some fields, and I was passed repeatedly by
these farmers leading horses with packs, carring machetes, and wearing
Panama hats of the type common here. I wanted to take pictures, but
aside from the fact that I had forgotten my camera and would have been
to shy to ask even if I had been carrying it with me, the pictures could
never have expressed the feeling of the time and place...

Foggy morning, hot and humid, with the mountains and volcanoes drifting
in and out of the clouds, farmers passing, walking among these beautiful
fields of vegetables, fields lying fallow, all incredibly green and
lush, and listening to kids laughing off in the distance as the headed
off to school...

Time like that, I feel so fortunate to be doing this kind of work, but I
worry that I won't ever be able to express those experiences to anyone
very effectively, least of all my students.