Thursday, June 21, 2012

Coffee

Ugandan coffee?  Awesome.  Very bold taste, but not very acidic.  Very similar to Andean coffee.  I would call it my second favorite, after Bolivian coffee beans, before both Peruvian coffee (uneven quality) and Guatemalan coffee (milder taste and a little rougher on your stomach).

Though my favorite place ever to get coffee remains the shack in San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala, where the beans are being roasted over burning wood chips on the counter, coffee bushes are growing out back, and you drink your espresso out of a tiny paper cup, as all the hippies, Israelis, and hippie Israelis wander up and down the street, scratching their bedbug bites, buying Bob Marley apparel and pot and trying to ignore all the signs saying "Jesus Loves You" in Spanish.

It also seems to be much easier to find cafés here that provide good quality coffee than in Peru or Guate., where most of the good stuff is exported.  Though I gather that Ugandan coffee exports are also huge.  So maybe it's just that I'm in the capital.

Drinking coffee here is also a joy, because they typically serve the coffee "English Style" which usually means that they bring you a little pot of coffee with about 24 ounces worth, a sugar bowl, a teacup and saucer, a little pitcher of milk, and two spoons.  I much prefer this to the German approach that they take in Guate. (and also Chile), where the coffee comes on a saucer with a cookie and with a little glass of seltzer water.  Highly acidic coffee + seltzer ≠ classy.  Highly acidic coffee + seltzer = heartburn.  But then, Guatemalans, who eat refried beans for all three meals apparently have ceramic-lined, cast iron stomachs.

When I can, I've been drinking two pots of English coffee, which is enough to get me good an wired.    

Coffee in Chile is the worst.  Their idea of a classy coffee joint is a place where they serve you coffee German style, there's no place to sit down, and all the bariastas (waitresses?) wear hot pants.  Though there is even Dunkin' Donuts in Santiago, you can't get a regular coffee--only little tiny take-away cups of espresso.  And all the coffee is "French Roast" (read: burned).  Note also that chileans like avocado on their hot dogs.

On the other hand, in Hungary, the waitress looks at you in disbelief when you ask for multiple shots of espresso.  ("You mean he wants four espressos?")  Absinthe?  No problem.  But four shots of espresso and you might as well be trying to buy heroin.  Although you probably would have less trouble buying heroin, and there would be less social stigma.

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